Tools

EV Charging Cost Calculator

Use this EV charging cost calculator to see how long a charge takes and what it costs from a wall socket, a home charger, public AC or a DC rapid charger. It adds charging losses measured by ADAC, never counts them twice, and compares the cost per 100 miles or km with a gas or petrol car. Free, no sign-up.

Runs in your browser; the values you enter are not stored.
kWh
The usable (net) capacity, not the gross figure.
%
%
Charging point
kW
kW
%
The default comes from the ADAC measurement range for the charging point you picked; you can change it.
Electricity price (per kWh)
£/kWh
£/kWh
£/kWh
Label figures include the loss of a reference AC charge; for other charging points we add only the difference in loss.
More settingscountry average, session fee, maker's charging time, label loss

min
£
If you enter it, we scale the DC curve to match. A fixed fee some networks add on top of the kWh price; leave empty if none.
%
WLTP and EPA figures include the loss of a reference AC charge (EPA: Level 2). The default is 10%; range and cost per 100 use it.

This is an estimate. The DC charging curve depends on the car, battery temperature and charger, so compare it with the time your own car shows. US: Level 1 at 120 V gives roughly 1.4 to 1.9 kW.

Result

Charging cost
0.00

Enter the battery size; time and cost update instantly.

Charging time0 min
Energy you pay for0 kWh
Into the battery0 kWh
Range added0 km
Effective charging power0 kW
Cost per 100 km0
Per kWh into the battery0
Written by
  • Digital Marketing Expert
  • Google Partner
  • Full Stack Developer
Last updated
Based on
5 sources

How to use the EV Charging Cost Calculator

  1. Pick a calculation

    Single charge gives time and cost. Compare lines up the same charge at five charging points. EV vs petrol then shows the cost per 100 miles or km and the yearly difference.

  2. Enter the battery and charge window

    Type the usable (net) battery capacity in kWh, then the start and target charge. The default window runs from 20% to 80%.

  3. Choose the charging point and power

    Pick a wall socket, a home charger, public AC or a DC rapid charger. For AC, also check your car's charging limit; for DC, check the charger power and your car's peak power.

  4. Add the price and consumption

    Enter the price per kWh and the average consumption. Tell the tool whether the figure comes from the label or the car display, so it adds charging losses correctly.

  5. Read and share the result

    Time, energy, cost, range added and cost per 100 update instantly. Then copy the link to send the same calculation to someone else.

EV charging formulas

The calculator first finds the energy going into the battery. Then it works out the energy you pay for and the charging power. Time and cost follow from these three numbers.

Energy into the battery (kWh)Capacity × (Target % − Start %) ÷ 100
Energy you pay for (kWh)Energy into the battery ÷ (1 − Charging loss)
AC charging power (kW)min(Socket or charger power, Car AC limit)
AC charging time (hours)Energy paid for ÷ AC charging power
DC charging time (hours)Σ Energy in each band ÷ min(Car peak power × band factor, Charger power)
Charging costEnergy paid for × Price per kWh + any session fee
Range added (miles or km)Energy into the battery ÷ Battery side consumption; for a label figure, battery side = Label × (1 − Reference loss)
Cost per 100 miles or kmBattery side consumption ÷ (1 − Loss at that charging point) × Price per kWh
Break-even electricity priceGas or petrol cost per 100 miles or km ÷ Wall side consumption at home

The DC band factors are our approximation, based on the car's peak power. Below 10% we use 75% of it, and from 10 to 80% we use 62%. Above that, the factor falls to 35% and then to 18% from 90%. If you enter the maker's 10-80% time, we scale the curve to match it. Label figures (WLTP or EPA) include the loss of a reference AC charge, 10% by default. For other charging points we add only the difference in loss, so nothing counts twice.

Worked EV charging examples

The prices are sample values chosen to show the maths. Enter the same values and you will see exactly these results.

ScenarioPowerLossInto batteryPaid forTimeCost (sample price)
75 kWh, 10% → 80%, home charger7.4 kW10%52.5 kWh58.33 kWh7 h 53 min£14.58 (£0.25/kWh)
75 kWh, 10% → 80%, wall socket2.3 kW15%52.5 kWh61.76 kWh26 h 51 min£15.44 (£0.25/kWh)
75 kWh, 10% → 80%, 3-phase charger11 kW6%52.5 kWh55.85 kWh5 h 5 min£13.96 (£0.25/kWh)
75 kWh, public AC 22 kW, car limit 11 kW11 kW6%52.5 kWh55.85 kWh5 h 5 min£29.04 (£0.52/kWh)
75 kWh, DC 150 kW, 10% → 80%average 93 kW5%52.5 kWh55.26 kWh34 min£43.66 (£0.79/kWh)
Same, maker says 25 min for 10-80%average 126 kW5%52.5 kWh55.26 kWh25 min£43.66 (£0.79/kWh)

The last row shows the calibration. Once you enter the maker's time, the calculator raises the average DC power to match it.

Power, losses and charging time by charging point

This table brings together the ADAC measurement ranges and the default losses we use. The time column is a 60 kWh battery going from 20% to 80%.

Charging pointTypical powerADAC measured lossOur default60 kWh, 20% → 80%Note
Wall socket2.3 kW (230 V × 10 A)12.7-24.2%15%18 h 25 minUS Level 1 at 120 V is lower still
Home charger, single phase7.4 kW (230 V × 32 A)8.0-12.8% (4.1 kW test)10%5 h 24 minMost US home Level 2 units give 7.2 kW
Home charger, three phase11 kW (3 × 230 V × 16 A)5.1-7.0%6%3 h 29 minSlower if the car's AC limit is lower
Public AC22 kW (3 × 230 V × 32 A)6.7% (one car)6%3 h 29 min (car 11 kW)An 11 kW car is no faster on a 22 kW post
DC 50 kW50 kW5-15% in total5%43 minThe charger caps the power
DC 150 kW150 kW5-15% in total5%23 min (car 150 kW)Power drops clearly after 80%

ADAC counts as loss any energy taken from the grid that is not available for driving. At DC chargers, about 3 points stay inside the charger, before the meter. So the part on your bill is mostly battery heating and cooling.

How does this EV charging cost calculator work?

An EV charging cost calculator answers three questions. First, how much energy goes into the battery? Second, how much do you pay for at the meter, and how long does it take? You need three numbers: usable battery capacity, start and target charge, and charging power. For example, taking a 75 kWh battery from 10% to 80% puts 52.5 kWh into it. On a 7.4 kW home charger with a 10% loss, you draw 58.33 kWh from the wall. That takes just under eight hours.

We built the tool around three modes:

  • Single charge: time, energy, cost, range and cost per 100.
  • Compare: the same charge on a wall socket, two home chargers, public AC and DC.
  • EV vs petrol: cost per 100, the break-even electricity price and the yearly difference.

The calculator accepts mi/kWh, kWh/100 mi, kWh/100 km and Wh/km, so you rarely need to convert. If you do, the unit converter handles miles, kilometres and gallons. Everything runs in your browser, and nothing you type reaches our server.

Why do you pay for more energy than the battery stores?

Not every kilowatt-hour from the wall ends up in the battery. The on-board charger turns alternating current into direct current and loses some of it as heat. The cable, the battery management system and cooling also take their share. ADAC, the German motoring club, defines the loss as grid energy that is not available for driving. Its measurements also differ widely by charging point:

  • On a household socket (2.3 kW) losses ranged from 12.7% to 24.2%.
  • On an 11 kW wallbox they stayed between 5.1% and 7.0%.
  • At DC rapid chargers the total was 5% to 15%. About 3% of that stayed inside the charger, and the rest went into battery heating and cooling.

That is why the calculator divides: energy paid for = energy into the battery ÷ (1 − loss). Some calculators multiply by (1 + loss) instead. At a 15% loss, that understates the energy by about 2%. The full test table is in the ADAC charging loss study. To see what a loss means for your bill in percentage terms, try the percentage calculator.

Why do a wall socket, a home charger and a public post charge at such different speeds?

With AC charging, the lower of two limits sets the pace. One is the power of the socket or charger; the other is the car's own AC limit. The electrical maths is simple. In Europe and the UK, 230 V × 10 A gives about 2.3 kW. At 32 A, the same line gives 7.4 kW. Three phases at 16 A or 32 A then give 11 kW or 22 kW. In the US, Level 1 uses a 120 V outlet. According to the US Department of Energy, most home Level 2 chargers deliver 7.2 kW at up to 30 A.

If your car accepts at most 11 kW, a 22 kW post will not speed it up. In that case the result shows a "Car limit" badge. For the same 36 kWh into the battery, the times compare as follows.

  • Wall socket: 18 h 25 min, because power is low and losses are high.
  • Single phase home charger: 5 h 24 min.
  • Three phase charger or public AC: 3 h 29 min.
  • DC at 150 kW: about 23 minutes.

If you plan to charge from a household socket regularly, have a qualified electrician check the circuit first. Hours of high current can stress older wiring.

Why does DC fast charging slow down after 80%?

On a DC rapid charger the car manages the power to protect the battery. It takes high power while the battery is low and cuts back as it fills. As a result, the last per cent arrive slowly. The US Department of Energy's Alternative Fuels Data Center also says that power varies by vehicle and state of charge.

We model the curve with four bands based on the car's peak power. From 0 to 10% we use 75% of it, and from 10 to 80% we use 62%. Above 80% the factor falls to 35%, and above 90% to 18%. The charger's own power also caps every band. These factors are an approximation, because model, battery temperature and preconditioning all change the curve. That is why More settings takes the maker's 10-80% time and scales the curve to it.

In the sample case, a 60 kWh battery takes 27 minutes from 10% to 80%. However, 80% to 100% adds about 20 minutes on its own. On a road trip, leaving at 80% and stopping again later usually means less waiting. The result panel shows this saving in the "Stop at 80%" row.

Where do you find your real electricity price at home and on the road?

At home, your bill or supplier app shows the unit rate per kWh. In Great Britain, Ofgem's energy price cap sets the maximum unit rate for standard variable tariffs each quarter. However, many EV owners use a time of use tariff with a cheaper overnight rate. If that applies to you, enter the overnight rate, because most home charging happens then.

For the US, the Energy Information Administration publishes average residential prices by state, and your utility bill shows your own rate. For example, a 75 kWh battery taken from 10% to 80% on a 7.2 kW Level 2 charger draws 58.33 kWh. At $0.17/kWh that costs $9.92 and takes about 8 h 6 min. For EU countries, Eurostat publishes household prices including taxes. The More settings panel can fill in that average for your country. It also adds the latest petrol price from the EU Weekly Oil Bulletin.

On the road, prices differ by network, by charger speed and sometimes by membership. So check the operator's app before you plug in. Some networks also add a session or overstay fee. You can add it in More settings, so the calculator includes it in the total. If a price is in euros, the euro converter turns it into pounds or dollars.

Using an EV charging cost calculator to compare an EV with a gas or petrol car

Put both cars on the same distance. In EV vs petrol mode, the EV charging cost calculator multiplies wall side consumption by the price per kWh. On the petrol side, it multiplies the fuel used by the price per litre or gallon. For example, take an EV rated (label) 3.6 mi/kWh and a petrol car doing 45 mpg (UK). At £0.25/kWh at home and £1.72 a litre, the EV costs £6.94 per 100 miles and the petrol car £17.38.

The same mode adds two more numbers.

  • Break-even electricity price: the kWh price at which both cars cost the same, here £0.626/kWh.
  • Yearly difference: the gap per 100 miles × yearly mileage ÷ 100. Here that is £835 over 8,000 miles with home charging.

Where you charge changes the answer. At £0.52/kWh on public AC, the gap shrinks to about £284 a year. At £0.79/kWh on rapid chargers, however, the EV costs about £273 more. For the petrol side of a single trip, the fuel cost calculator gives litres, cost per mile and pump prices.

WLTP, EPA or dashboard: which consumption figure should you enter?

The source of your consumption figure decides whether charging losses count twice. In Europe, the WLTP test works out electric consumption from the energy recharged from the mains. In the US, the EPA says its ratings assume Level 2 charging and include cable and on-board charger losses. That moves the measurement to the wall outlet, so a label figure sits on the wall side for a reference Level 2 charge.

The average on your dashboard, by contrast, usually shows energy taken from the battery. It leaves out charging losses. That is why the calculator offers two options.

  • Label (WLTP/EPA): the figure includes the loss of a reference AC charge, 10% by default. We take that loss off for range; for other charging points we add only the difference in loss to the cost.
  • Car display: we divide by (1 − loss) for cost and use the figure as it is for range.

Some calculators skip this step and add the loss on top of a label figure. That inflates the cost. In practice, speed, outside temperature and climate control move real consumption away from the label. So a few weeks of your own dashboard average are often the best input.

How can charging operators and EV dealers use a calculator like this?

Anyone thinking about an electric car asks two things first. How long does charging take, and what does it cost? A calculator that answers both is a natural entry point for a charging network, a dealer or an installer. Visitors enter their own car and tariff, share the result and often take the next step on your site.

Talha Aslan and the team match interactive content like this to search intent. We explain why such elements work in interactive web design elements. Our Google Maps SEO guide then shows how charging sites stand out on the map. For people searching "home charger installation" or "EV charging near me", see our Google Ads management service.

Common EV charging calculation mistakes

  • MistakeAdding charging losses on top of a WLTP or EPA figureDo this insteadLabel figures already include the loss of a reference AC charge. Choose Label as the source, and the calculator adds only the difference for other charging points.
  • MistakeEntering the gross battery capacityDo this insteadUse the usable (net) capacity; the gross figure inflates both time and cost.
  • MistakeAssuming a 22 kW post charges at 22 kWDo this insteadEnter your car's AC limit. A car limited to 11 kW also takes 11 kW on a 22 kW post.
  • MistakeAssuming constant DC power up to 100%Do this insteadAllow for the drop after 80%. In the sample, 80-100% takes 20 minutes and 10-80% takes 27.
  • MistakeForgetting session and overstay feesDo this insteadIf the network charges a fixed fee, add it under More settings.

Frequently Asked Questions

Run a charging network, a dealership or an energy business? Your customers ask these questions on Google.

Talha Aslan and the team bring the people asking them to your site with calculator content, local SEO and search ads. See what we do.

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